Combination hemmer and strip guide



2 Sheets-Sheet l gnwwfot 7 June 21, 1932. K. MAIER I COMBINATION HEMMER AND STRIP GUIDE Filed Dec. 16, 1927 II .II Ill-IF June 21, 1932. M 1,864,503

COMBINATION HEMMER AND STRIP GUIDE Filed Dec. 16. 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 iiglf Q Z'LQLLLA,

Patented June 21, 1932 UNITED STATES PAJENT; OFFICE KARL M'AIEB, or s'ru'r'rem'r, FABRIK, e.

COMBINATION HEMMER AND STRIP GUIDE Application filed December 16,. 1927, Serial No..240, 534, and in Germany January 27, 1927.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a combination hemmer and strip guide, and more particularly a strip guide for directing an elastic strip which is secured within and to the article at the same time that the hem is stitched therein.

An objectof the invention is to provide a combined hemmer and elastic strip guide with means whereby the elastic strip guide may be shifted at the will of the operator so that the elastic strip may be directed across the path of one of the needles for fastening said elastic strip to the fabric, said shifting means including devices for frictionally hold- 5 ing said strip guide in set position, and stops for limiting the extent to which said guide may be shifted.

A further object of the invention is to provide a combined hemmer and stri guide of the above type wherein the strip guide may be shifted by means of a hand operated swinging lever, friction means being provided to hold the lever in any set position, and stops being provided to limit the extent of movement of the lever.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention;

Figure 1 is a front view of a combined hemmer and strip guide embodying. the invention, and showing the same as attached to the work support of a sewing machine.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the part shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line A, B of Fig. 5.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view on theline C, D of Flg. 5.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a portion of the article stitched on the improved hemmer and strip guide.

The invention is directed to a combined hemmer and strip guide which forms a hem in a body fabric which is secured to the body fabric by lines of stitching, and which also directs an elastic strip stitching and between the inturned hem and the body fabric so that said elastic strip is between the lines ofplaced in a pocket formed by the line of stitching joining the infolded portions which provide the hem on thebody fabric.

The means for guiding the-elastic strip is mounted on a slide which is capable of being moved in a direction at right angles to the line of feed for the purpose of shifting the strip guide, so that the strip may at the will of the operator be moved'laterally across the path of'one of the needles, and thus the needle caused to penetrate the elastic strip and secure said elastic by a line of stitching which is forming the hem in the body fabric. This plate which is shifted laterally is moved by means of a lever swinging in a vertical plane and readily accessible to the operator. The lever is provided with a slot which cooperates with a pin on the slide, and the shifting of the lever will move the slide endwise, and thus shift the elastic strip guide. A friction washer is provided for holding said lever in set positions, and stops are also provided for limiting the extent of movement of the lever. Referring morein detail to the drawin s, the hemmer for infolding the edge of t e body garment is indicated at a, and the strip ide is indcated-at b. This hemmer is of the usual character and is provided with a recess 0 properly shaped for infolding and underfolding the edge of the body fabric.

Referring to Figs. 3 and 4 of the drawings, the body fabric is indicated at d. This body fabric is infolded and underfolded as indicated at e. The body fabric thus folded is directed to the stitching mechanism which forms two parallel lines of stitching indicated at w and 'w. The elastic strip is indicated at f. It will be noted from Fig. 5 that the elastic strip at a certain portlon of the hem fold lies between the lines of stitching m and w, and the strip is not penetrated by the needles as they form these lines of stitching. It will also be noted that at other portions in the article, the elastic strip has been shifted to one side relative to the hem in the body fabric so that the line of stitching :1: passes through the elastic strip at the same time that it forms and stitches the hem fold. The elastic strip the drawings as shown in lies between the infolded portion of the body 1 0 tions.

fabric and the body fabric. This elastic-strip miggllt be directed into a hem pocket if des1re Y The hemmer is provided with a shank g which is secured to the work support 71 by suitable screws h, k. Mountedon the supporting base for the hemmer is a vertically extendlng bracket k. The fabric supporting plate of the hemmer overlies this bracket is. Located beneath the fabric supporting plate of the hemmer is the elastic stripguide I). Said elastic strip guide 6 extends in a direction at an inclination to the line of feed which is indicated by the arrow in Fig. 2. The neeles are indicated in this figure at o, 4). From the above it will be noted that the guide for the elastic stri will deliver said elastic strip in proper positlon to pass between the needles substantially at the delivery end of the hem ol er.

The elastic strip guide I) is formed integral with the plate Z. This plate Zis provided with slots m, m through which extend pins n, 41 carried by the bracket is. Also mounted on the bracket is is a shaft 0 which passes through an elongated slot in the plate Z. On the outer end of said shaft is a handlever p. Between the lever and the plate is a friction disk 8 which bears against a washer, pressing the same against the plate Z, and thus it is that the lever will be frictionally held in set posl- The hub of the lever p is provlded with a slot 9. The plate Z is provided with a pin r extending into the said slot 9. When the hand lever is moved by the operator the pin 1" will be shifted through the connection thereof with the hand lever, and this 'will shift the plate l carrying the strip guide. The operator may at will move this hand lever 1n one direction or the other. it is moved in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 1, the plate I will be moved to the right and the strip guide will be moved so as to draw the elastic strip across the path of the right hand needle '2). j

The plate I is provided with a. recessin which is located a lug t. This lug is carried by an arm' secured to the bracket is. The

ends u, u of the recess serve as stops. The lug t is rigidly attached to the bracket, and

when the plate is shifted in one direction, one will engage the lug and this willof the stops limit the swinging movement of the hand lever. When said plate is moved in the other direction, then the other step will engage the lug, and this will limit the movement of the hand lever. The arm carrying the lug t may be adjusted on the bracket and the parts properly positioned so that the strip guide may be shifted just the desired distance, so as to cause said elastic strip to cross the ath of the right hand needle.

. elastic strip will be moved nearer the edge of the fold forming the hem. Thus it is that the elastic strip while'loc'ated between the lines When When so shi ed the 1 to the garment, then the guide is shifted so that the tape will lie free between the lines of stitching. The tape at the time of being stitched in the pocket is stretched and when the circular portion of the garment has been finished and the other side edge or end thereof is reached, then the guide is again shifted so that the line of stitches a: will pass through of the strip. The

and tack the other end elastic strip may then be severed along the line E, F if desired, and whether it is severed or not when it is released from the machine, the strip returning to its normal position will gather the material, as'indicated in Fig. 5 of the drawings. g It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims. at is claimed as new is: l. The combination of a hermner having a fabric supporting plate, means for infolding the edge portion of the fabric and directing the same to a stitch forming mechanism for forming independent lines of stitching, a strip guide independent of the hemmer and ocated beneath said fabric supporting plate and having its delivery end adjacent the delivery end of the folder and disposed so as to direct an elastic strip between the infolded portions and the body fabric and between the line of stitching, means controlled by the operator at will for shifting said strip guide relative to the hemmer whereby the line of stitching adjacent the folded edge of the bod fabric is caused to penetrate and secure sai elastic strip to said body fabric, and yielding means or holding said strip guide 1n set position. 4

2. The combination of a hemmer adapted to direct a body fabric with its edge infolded to a stitch forming mechanism, a strip guide for directing an elastic strip between the infolded portions and the body fabric, a vertically arranged bracket carried by the hemmer, a verticallyarranged plate supporting the strip guide, saidplate having slots, pins carried by said bracket extending through said slots for supporting the plate, a vertically swinging lever adjacent the plate, said ever having a notch therein, and a pin on said plate engaging said notch whereby the swin 'ng of the lever'will shift the plate.

3. he combination of a hemmer adapted strip guide,sa.i

- ing a notch to direct a body fabric with its to direct abody fabric its edge infolded to a stitch formin mechamsm, a strip gmde for astic strip between the infolded portions and the'body fabric, a vertically arran ed bracket carried by the hemmer,avertica garrangedplatesupportingthe plate having slots,pins carried by said bracket extending through said slots for supporting the plate a vertically swinging lever adjacent the plate, said lever havtherein, a pin on said plate en'- gaging said notch whereby theswinging of the lever will shift the plate, and a spring washer between said lever and plate for holding the lever and plate in set position.

4. The combination of a hemmer adapted edge infolded to a stitch formin mechanism, a strip guide for directing an astic folded portions and the y fabric, a vertically arranged bracket carried by the hemmer, a vertically arranged plate supporting the strip guide, said late having slots, pins carried by said brac et extending through said slots for supporting the plate, a vertically swinging lever ad'acent the plate, said lever having a. notch t erein and a pin on said plate engaging said notch whereby the swinging of the lever will shift the plate, a spring washer between said lever and plate for holding the lever and plate in set position, a lug carried bysaid bracket, said plate having spaced stop shoulders cooperati with said lug for the movement 0 the plate.

In testimony whereof, I my signature.

KARL MAIEB.

between the in- 

